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In fact, this ex-pat from Wiesbaden should not have been feeling at home in her own four whitewashed walls since 1997. That was the year that the Spanish parliament approved the newly redrawn coastline for the smallest of the Balearic Islands. But because no one really realised what had happened when the motion was passed more than a decade ago, very few people filed any objections or opposed the change. It seems that the homeowners affected now want to make up for lost time. Over the past months and year, an organised protest movement has developed in fits and starts. Its members are focusing on a law that was passed back in 1988: the coastal law known as Ley de Costas. For almost two decades, this controversial law lay forgotten in some dark corner of the Spanish Ministry of the Environment - until the Social Democrats won the general election in 2004 and banished the Conservatives to the opposition benches. The Minister of the Environment at the time, Cristina Narbona, was the one who resuscitated the Ley de Costas.
The Ministry of the Environment now estimates that coastal measurements will not be completed before 2011 - 23 years after the coastal law first came into force. The waves roll gently over the sand and rocks of the beach. Seagulls glide through the air, propelled by the chill north wind. It's a winter image worthy of a picture postcard out here on the deserted Migjorn beach. But once again, appearances can be deceptive and behind the scenes, María Jose Mayans has been battling for years to save her family's livelihood. The woman from Formentera, who acts as the spokeswoman for the "Salvar Formentera" citizens' action group, stands amidst the dunes and looks over at the "Real Playa" restaurant with a worried expression on her face. It's a two-storey building containing another seven apartments that her family rent out over the summer. "Theoretically, all of them belong to the Spanish state," she says with a note of bitterness in her voice.
In practical terms, business has been going on as usual for several years. However, the uncertainty of not knowing what will happen to the family's livelihood in the long term casts a long shadow over the future. "At any given moment, the Spanish Ministry could send us a letter to tell us that our days here are numbered," says María Jose Mayans. A stretch of sand measuring around 20 metres separates the building from the sea. If the weather is bad, the waves can reach the terrace of the restaurant. "Real Playa" is very close indeed to the water, and María Jose Mayans knows it. "But we were given all the planning permission we needed to build it back in 1982," she says. Back then, the coastline was calculated according to the measurements made in 1969. Even today, you can still see stone pyramids engraved with the letters ZMT for zona marítima terrestre all along the coast. Formentera was the first populated island in Spain to be allocated the new coastline. To date,
the Ministry of the Environment has measured just
57 percent of Ibiza's total shoreline, compared to
a good 70 percent on Mallorca. According to the
government in Madrid, if everything goes to plan,
the entire coastline of the Balearic Islands will have been measured by the end of 2009. "Meaning
that there will be a lot of home owners on Ibiza
who are in for a nasty surprise," predicts Carmen
del Amo. This determined woman from Alicante is the spokeswoman for the citizens' action group "Plataforma Nacional de Afectados de la Ley de Costas", known as PNALC for short. She can't understand why the coastal law is receiving so little attention from politicians on Ibiza and Mallorca compared to Formentera. "You just have to take a look at some shorelines to see how close the buildings are to the sea," says Carmen del Amo. "The coastal authorities are going to draw a red line through a lot of buildings and swimming pools." The colour used for the new coastline on the plan drawn up by the Ministry of the Environment really is red. In Formentera's case, it forms a thin strip that goes all the way around the island. At some points, it is just a stone's throw away from the sea, whereas in others, it can be up to 300 metres inland. As is the case with Nordhild Kohler's home. The 64 year-old is one of the unlucky ones whose terrace of houses is completely encircled by the ominous red line. If it were a doll's house, all she would have to do would be to lift it up and move it a few metres to the left or right to shift it out of the range of the new coastline. Unfortunately, Nordhild Kohler and her husband didn't buy a dolls house back in 1980, but a holiday residence that "has now become our second home." And this is something that they are willing to fight for. "Our house is located 150 metres from the sea on a craggy stretch of shore," says Nordhild Kohler. It's true that for the Kohlers' veranda to be transformed into a paddling pool would take a tsunami of epic proportions - because the Ministry of the Environment is using archaic methods to re-draw the coastline: the coastal law literally states that the red line must be drawn at the highest point reached by waves during a storm. "That's totally absurd," Nordhild Kohler believes. "The craggy shore outside our home forms a natural barrier." Without pausing for breath, she asks why the red line was not, as in her case, drawn behind the level of some people's front doors, but in front of them. "I have a feeling that where the red line was drawn had more to do with influence and amicable relations than anything else." Yet the aims of the Ley de Costas are basically noble ones: on the one hand, it is designed to ensure that the coast is protected and maintained. On the other hand, it is supposed to ensure that the general public has unlimited access to the beach. However, the coastal law has led to uproar because of the apparently random way in which the coastline has been measured and the fact that the law is being applied retrospectively. "This is an attack on property buyers' protection through law," believes Carmen del Amo. "It can't be the case that residential property that was bought legally according to the laws of the time can suddenly be transferred to the state."
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